not least some 2k clear coat now there might be a couple other things that you might need like masking tape and whatnot but if you're interested in any of the products that I'm going to be using in this video I'll put links to where you can buy them for cheap down below in the description box so don't be afraid to click on them and check them out yourself so obviously as one would imagine doing this with red hands it's not going to be as good as spraying your base coat and clear coat with a high-volume low-pressure spray gun but that requires an air compressor and a garage which not everyone has hence our attempt to do this with rally cane now I have not painted a panel before using
just rattle cane but I have a good feeling that this is going to come out looking really nice and as long as you follow the steps in this video exactly you should have the same result so make sure you watch this video all the way to the end alright and after that let's get on to the repair procedure so what you'll want to do next is to grab yourself a clean bucket of water pour in some car wash soap and then using a sponge thoroughly clean the panel's that's going to be repaired now some of you have mentioned it's actually better to use a dishwashing detergent to clean up the panel before people work
because these car wash soap have some wax preservatives in them and that goes when a paint job by causing fisheye with dishwashing detergent saan like bees actually strip away grease and wax as it says right on the back of this thing right here is the dishwashing detergent strip wax prediction and leaf paint vulnerable to the elements what I don't have any dishwashing detergent here at the shop because this washing is for ladies first I'm going to use some wax and grease remover later so it's not a huge issue see I wasn't being sexist I only use paper plates plastic forks and iPhone cups no need to wash dishes that's only for the ladies alright next we have ourselves a clean bucket of water and using
a clean sponge thoroughly clean our panel and it goes without saying this would be a lot more efficient if you have a garden hose all right now with the panel all clean he is an ideal to tell better what's going on now if you're wondering this line here is because I had some masking paper here I was going to try to repair the clear coat only on this panel but then I realized you know it's quickly just too far out gone plus I think more people are interested in seeing how you can spray both base coat and clear coat using rattle cans all right now your base coat that's the code that gives you cards
color is really really thin which means you cannot fill in or cover any deep scratches or rough surfaces like these it can only fill in and cover scratches left by a 400 grit sandpaper now 400 grit sandpaper is not particularly a coarse sandpaper so in order to remove these chip paint on this panel we're going to use some 220 grit sandpaper which is a bit more coarse than a 400 grit sandpaper and it should make easier work of this peeling clear coat so the plan for this panel is to apply base coat to the front where the damages are and then blend that into the middle section of the panel and then apply a clear coat to the entire panel also if you're new to this stuff I recommend use some masking tape to create boundaries for your repair area because let's say we're going to be sending this area
down up to here with 220 grit sandpaper after that we're going to be applying primer and we're going to go past a few inches just to make sure we cover everything we sand it and then after we apply primer we're going to be sending that down with 400 grit sandpaper and again we're going to go a few inches above that because over there we're going to be applying base coat so if you're not careful your rip area can expand so get yourself some masking tape and create yourself a boundary below which you're going to be sanding with 220 grit all right sir look at the boundaries we have so far also if you peel back the tape like this this will help to ensure that your sanding blocks does not
accidentally go over this and scratch beyond this but anyway when you're sanding just try to stop short about an inch before you get to the boundary line also it's very important to get some tape and put it on the edges of the adjacent panels so you don't accidentally scratch them when you're sanding and you are used all the way to the top on both sides because you're going to eventually have to sand down the entire panel anyway and next you grab yourself a sanding block like this I like to use these soft sanding blocks on these the gray side is little bit more soft than the black side and if you're wondering for this job I'm going to be using the black side which is a little bit more firm you want to
make sure that lays flat against the panel all right so next you just simply draft your sanding paper around your sanding block and then you simply go at it until you have a smooth surface and for this you are going to need some elbow grease again link in the description box down below so here's a close-up shot of what you'll need to do basically you want to get the areas that look like this to look like this nice and smooth you simply keep going at it until that happens see we're expanding here and these white marks these white areas this is your primer you don't want to sand over these too much because you don't want to go through the primary and get to bare metal so you want to move away from the areas where you see white so yeah we're just going to move lower also it's a good idea it has a dance microfiber towel to clean the areas it's handy so you can check your work and know exactly
where you are oh yeah all righty twenty-five minutes later here's what we have on this side where we had deep red rock chips I have to go deeper and the results you can see some of the white primer that's oh that was underneath our base coat but like in this area where we have the smaller rock chips primer should be able to take care of these no problem and here's look at the other side as well and I didn't manage to say just short of our border for the most part alright next in preparation for spraying primer I am actually going to remove our masking tapes where our border is because as you see there is some sanding dust that's stuck right underneath it and we need to clear that up because when you
start spraying primary that's going to go airborne and get all over the place and you don't want that to happen so we're just going to remove that and then clean that up and then reapply our masking tape to the same exact area there we go so once again we'll clean the area with some clean water make sure you're very thorough and get yourself a clean microfiber towel and dry off your repair you can always be air-dry it if you have an air compressor it will grab yourself some grease and wax remover and then using another clean microfiber towel we're going to thoroughly clean the area where we're going to be spraying primer and you know you can just make two passes and then flip your microfiber
towel over and do the rest of it and it still works great and if you've ever ate quickly as well so once again we're going to mark our repair area and you want to go about an inch inch and a half just above where you see the 220 sand scratches all right and again peel back the masking tape all right now as far as what type of primary you want to spray you want to keep a couple of things in mind the first thing is that you want to spray a high build primer so that he can fill in the 220 grit sand scratches and the rock chips you see here and the other thing is that you want to pick your color that's the same or
very close to your base coat so here our base coat is pretty much black so we preferably want a black primer or maybe a grey primer but most important of all you want to take a primer that's compatible with your urethane based base coat clear coat see these rust-oleum primers that they sell at the Auto Zone these are not compatible with your base coat clear coat so these are like row base primers and if you spray these on your panel and then spray your urethane based base coat and clear coat these are going to breathe through that and you're going to be able to see it and it's not look good also if you
can afford it you should use a 2k primer which is what I have here instead of a 1k primer so your 2k primer is basically a two part primaries guys the primer inside and the catalyst towards the bottom and you mix them right before you're ready to spray it and the way you go about mixing them is to first shake the can for two minutes straight next you'll remove this red pesky cap up top and then place it on the bottom like this but we can't upside down and with your hand test the sinan all the way just like that and now the catalyst is mixed with the primer and once more you can have to shake you
can for two minutes before you start spraying and generally speaking these to get primaries just much more durable and they also stand a lot better oh yeah before we start spraying we need to cover up our car and for that I like to use these plastic drop cloth they are 10 by 20 feet and they make the job a lot easier oh and if I remember correctly they're only about 5 bucks or so just open it up pull over the car like this and get yourself a razor blade and simply cut it around the area that's to be painted like this and just fill the sack to the border and then get yourself some more masking tape and then simply take the plastic and place like this as I said earlier it's important to back match the tape in the
middle of the panel so that when you spray the primer you don't have a big line here so I right before we start spraying we're going to maximize our fan area that's going to be coming out of this can by turning this plastic top clockwise like this and the absolute last step before we start spraying our primer is to tack down our panel with a tack cloth and we're going to say with 50% overlap and make sure you start spraying before you start moving your arm there's what it looks like after our first pass so now we're just going to wait ten minutes and apply a second coat and I'm not sure what color this
primer is going to look like a camera but it's great in real life all right time for our second pass I put this on a little heavier ten minutes later time for a third and final coat all right next since it's about freezing temperature here in Southern California which is exactly about the five degrees Fahrenheit we're gonna have to wait an hour before we can start standing the stamp and that means it's time for lunch and what's for lunch a California burrito what all and what you want to get in California burrito no salsa sour cream french fries cheese and just the carne asada and that's it and then you add your
own hot sauce and it's going to come out super good you can get so much today all right so it's been an hour and now we're ready to start sanding our primer but before we take off our masking paper it's a good idea to do a quick spray of a different color primer or paint on this primer and I'm going to be using this red 1k primer for this and this is basically a guy code this is going to help you know exactly where you stand it and where you have it and here you have it this is what you want it to look like already once again we get a razor blades I'm going to cut this plastic all the way to the top of that site and then we just peel this back and once again just about an inch or so above our primary we're
going to put a masking tape to limit where our 400 grit sand scratches are going to go all right next
we'll grab ourselves a 400 grit sandpaper and again using the black side of our sanding block we're going to sand down our panel you don't want to go super crazy you just want to make sure you have a smooth surface there we go and and this guy code we sprayed on here it's going to help us greatly and finding out actually we're with Candace and we're we have it and the most important areas and property is going to be this edge right here you want to make sure this looks like this so that when you spray your base coat you don't see it later on because if you leave it like this you will see it here's
what it looks like 15 minutes in you guys want to take a guess where we need to keep sanding and here's how it looks like all done and we were able to effectively get rid of our edge so now we're going to remove the masking tape that we had here and now we're going to hand down the rest of the panel with some 1500 grit sandpaper you know what since I don't want to wet sand this panel I'm actually going to use a gray scotch brite pad to scuff it up and I don't want a wet hand because if you Wilson and water gets on the primer Daria's then generally speaking you need to wait about four hours so maybe even overnight for the primer area to completely dry before you start spraying your
base coat just make sure you scuff up the edges because if you don't that's where your nuclear code is going to start peeling from also make sure you go a few inches into the areas where you have the 400 grit scratches because basically can stick to both 400 grit and 1500 grit scratches but it can only fill in and cover 400 grit scratches and finer oh yeah and this isn't any scotch brite pad this is a Autobody and refinishing scotch brite pad again link in the description box alright all done as you can see our panel is nicely scuffed up alright next I need to clean the Hicks others cannot fully start spraying our base coat what I wanted to do is to use a lot of grease some axiom over on this area where we have
the clear coat this area we have the base coat is pretty clean so I'm just going to I'm not going to rub too much grease and waxing over into that but this area is going to get completely clean all soleus and dust everywhere and we need to get all of that cleaned up now you at home may not have an option but it might just be a better idea for you just use a garden hose and completely wash down your car with water before you go on to the grease and wax remover but over here I have an air compressor so I can just use that to dust off the car all right I don't figure to just up yourself now it's time for some grease and wax remover action and next what we want to do is to start spraying or
basically what you want to do is to get your paint coat which is usually either on a sticker inside your driver side door jamb or your glove box or your spare tire well and take that to your local auto body shop supply store and having mixed that and put it inside of a spray can like this and I'm hoping one of these will do the job here today but you may need to we're about to find out also not all Auto Body Supply stores will put this in a can for you but again if you want to buy it online link in the description box down below and again let's sit before we start spraying is to tack down our entire panel then we start spraying same pattern and everything has we sprayed our primer Oh houston we
may have a problem I'm kidding this is normal we may yet still have the problem but it's early to tell anyway why now we wait ten minutes before our second coat I might have forgot to mention that for now we're just going to spray in the primary area after we cover this area then we'll blend into the rest of the panel later all right ten minutes later we're going to first pack down our panel once more and do our second coat you here's a look after our second pass now this is starting to look more like it ten minutes later we take it down once more and now it looks even better we might be able to pull this off with one can after all I think just one more coat and then do the blend area and I should do it all
righty we got pretty good coverage in our primary area not in order to do our blend what I'm going to do is to just put one one medium coat right here and then move up 50% and do a light coat and that should blend it into the rest of the panel so here you have it folks there's some glare in this picture I know and it's going to be kind of hard seeing what's going on but I think you guys get the right idea and now we just wait an hour and then spray our clear coat all righty now we're ready to start spraying our makeup now as far as what type of clay code you want to spray well if you can get your hands on one you want to spray to get pretty close because you're probably going to need to wet sand
and polish the clear coat later and you really can't polish it one cake circle you're probably just going to bring it right through it and these mix the same way as the primer you move this filling up top put them on the bottom and push em in like that and then you shake it for two minutes then you take down your panel one last time after this you're not going to be able to tack down your panel of course and now you start spraying there's 1/2 not too shabby a and here's the second half now we just wait about ten minutes before we spray our second coat all right after a second pass here's what we have I
don't know if you guys can see it but it came out a little streaky the clear coat on this end and also somewhat orange pili but that's to be expected after all you're spraying clear coat I have a spray can but both of those issues can be fixed with some wet sanding and polishing so next time it's going to wait another 10 minutes and then spray whatever it's circled is left and they can on this panel and then be done with clear coat all right ten minutes later and with whatever is left in this can I'm just going to go over that's where I see the street I'm going to go over there this way towards the status panel so I can hopefully get rid of them and now I'm just going to wait an hour and then take off the masking
tape and this plastic sheet and give you guys a final look all right an hour later here's a look at our panel we always coverage with the base coat and we were able to blend it pretty well you can't tell where the primary and the repairer was but it is going to need some wet sanding and polishing as one would expect you also need to polish the adjacent panels just so that the newly painted panel doesn't stand out on your car and with that step going to wrap this up, thanks.
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